Bearings are the 8 small metal components (two per wheel) that let your wheels spin around the axle. You do not need the bearings with the highest ABEC number to skate well: the ABEC scale was designed for industrial machinery and measures manufacturing precision, not the impact resistance or durability a skateboard actually demands. What sets good bearings apart is build quality, materials and maintenance, not a marketing figure on the box.
How they work and how many you need
A complete skateboard uses 8 bearings: two per wheel, one on each side, usually separated by an internal spacer. Each bearing has an outer race, balls (typically 7 steel balls), a cage that keeps them evenly spaced, and shields that keep dust out of the interior. Every skateboard bearing shares the same standard 608 size (8 mm inner diameter), so any set fits any skate wheel.
The ABEC scale: why it misleads
ABEC stands for the Annular Bearing Engineers’ Committee. The scale runs in odd grades (1, 3, 5, 7, 9) and measures dimensional tolerances: how precisely the bearing is machined. It was created for applications that spin at tens of thousands of RPM, such as lathes, motors and robotics.
The problem is that skateboarding is nothing like that. Popping an ollie or rolling down a set of stairs, your wheels spin at a realistic maximum of around 4,500-5,000 RPM. At those speeds the precision difference between an ABEC 5 and an ABEC 9 is irrelevant. Worse, the ABEC scale completely ignores the things that actually matter on a skateboard:
- Resistance to impact and side loading (the weight that lands on the bearing).
- The material and steel or ceramic quality.
- The type of lubricant and cage.
- The shields and how easy the bearing is to clean.
That is why brands like Bones do not even print an ABEC number on their bearings: they created their own “Skate Rated” system, designed for real use on a board. A high ABEC number on a cheap set often signals the opposite of what it promises.
What actually matters
| Factor | Why it matters |
|---|---|
| Steel quality | Determines durability and impact resistance |
| Steel vs ceramic | Ceramic is harder, lighter and handles heat better; also far pricier |
| Shields | Removable rubber shields are easy to clean; fixed metal ones are not |
| Spacers | Distribute landing pressure and extend bearing life |
| Lubricant | Good grease cuts friction and protects against moisture |
For the vast majority of skaters, a set of good-brand steel bearings is all you need. Ceramic makes sense if you want maximum durability and do not mind paying three or four times more, but it will not make you a “better” skater.
Reputable bearing lines
Some of the most trusted manufacturers among skaters are Bones (the Reds have been the value benchmark for decades), Bronson Speed Co., Independent, Spitfire and Mini Logo for cheap but honest options. You can compare prices and models in the full catalogue across more than 400 European shops.
Basic maintenance
Bearings last much longer if you look after them. Every few months, or whenever they start to feel rough:
- Pull the wheels and bearings off with a skate tool.
- Carefully remove the rubber shields (a pin or utility knife works).
- Soak them in solvent (isopropyl alcohol or a dedicated degreaser).
- Dry them completely (never with water) and add one or two drops of lubricating oil per bearing.
- Refit the shields and reassemble everything.
Never leave them wet or over-lubricate them: excess grease attracts dust.
Frequently asked questions
Do I need ABEC 9 to go faster? No. At realistic skating speeds the difference is not noticeable. Prioritise build quality and material over the ABEC number.
Are expensive bearings worth it? A jump from budget to mid-range (like Bones Reds) is genuinely noticeable. Moving to premium ceramic, however, offers diminishing returns for everyday use.
How often should I clean them? It depends on the terrain. If you skate dry and clean, once or twice a year is enough. If you hit water, sand or dust, clean them as soon as they start to grind.